TRAVELING IN CUBA JUNE 2012
What better way to introduce my trip to Cuba than to quote the introductory paragraph from the Lonely Planet's 2011 edition on Cuba.
"There ought to be a banner in the arrivals hall at Havana airport that reads 'Abandon preconceptions, all ye who enter here.' Get ready for hshocks, surprises and eye-opening epiphanies. Twenty-first century Cuba promises to be like nowhere else you have ever visited: economically poor, but culturally rich; visibly mildewed, but architecturally magnificant; infuriating, yet at the same time, strangely uplifting"
I am traveling with the Grand Circle Foundation June 12 - 23, 2012; we will visit Havana, Trinidad and Cienfuegos. Please enjoy this adventure with me.
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| Cuba is 90 miles from Florida; largest island in Caribbean |
Background
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| Jose Marti, Cienfuegos |
Cuba has a long history of 'occupation' by other countries starting with the Spanish in the 15th c. when Columbus discovered Cuba en route to America. Spain's occupation lasted 400 years. Spanish forces put down several major rebellions, including the ten years war (1868 to 1878_led by Carlos Manuel de Cespedes. Another major attempt at independence took place in 1895, when ragtag forces including Cuban poet and patriot José Marti were defeated at the Battle of Dos Ríos. The revolution was still simmering in 1898 when the United States and Spain fought the Spanish-American War. While Cuba gained independence from Spain, in 1902, with the help of dictators Gerardo Machado and Fulgencio Batista, Cuba was under the virtual control of the U.S. The 1940's and 1950's in Cuba was the hey day of the casinos ... music, dance, drinking and gambling, prostitution, mafiosi and film stars. The Cuban Revolution in 1959 changed Cuba dramatically! While Castro's communist government eradicated illiteracy, implemented health care and extensive agrarian reform, they also nationalized many U.S. properties.
Since 1960, Americans have not been allowed to travel to Cuba as tourists. The United States embargo against Cuba - a commercial, economic, and financial embargo partially imposed on Cuba in October 1960 - was enacted after Cuba nationalized the properties of United States citizens and corporations.It was strengthened to a near-total embargo on Feb 7, 1962.
Additional information about Cuba's history and political system are included at the end of this blog, after our day-by-day itinerary.
The Capital building in Havana was completed in 1931 and resembles the U.S. Capitol.
Looking at cars in Havana takes one back to the U.S. in the 1950's. This pink Plymouth is a taxi!
Since July 2011, the United States Department of the Treasury permits licensed organizations to engage in travel 'which includes a full-time schedule of Educational Exchange Activities involving extensive People-to-People contact in Cuba…' With agreement from the Cuban Government the doors are ‘ajar’. Americans cannot travel as tourists unless they enter Cuba through another country. The Grand Circle Foundation, the nonprofit arm of Grand Circle Tours, is one of many organizations now offering trips to Cuba from the U.S.
Tuesday, June 12 Denver/Miami, FL
After departing home at 4:30am for Denver Airport, at 740am on AA heading for Miami and a charter flight to Havana. On my way!
Overnight at Sheraton Airport Hotel in Miami....most comfortable beds! We met with GCF Tour Guide Alfredo Valverde and group - introductions and overview of trip. We are 20 travelers representative of the US - from CA, NY, ID, MI, CO, NM, MO.
Wednesday, June 13 Miami to Havana
In order to make 9:00am Delta 'charter' flight to Havana, we met in lobby of Hotel at 5:15am. Goal was to get through check in before the vast number of people bringing large volumes of goods to family in Cuba arrived. We did it... by 7:00am we were having coffee and breakfast! Flight was filled to capacity but on time. A 45 minute flight had us in the Havana before 10:00am. We arrived at a building on the edge of Jose Marti International Airport. It took more than 2 hours to clear immigration, get our bags and clear customs. Can you imagine dozens of 50" inch TVs, microwaves, appliances all wrapped in significant amounts of colorful plastic tape rolling off plane onto cargo carriers onto belts and rolling through baggage claim? A sight to behold.
But where is my small bag? When all the bags were loaded, smaller bags were put on top. During flight, bags shifted and smaller bags fell from top to bottom, thus were last to be off loaded! Result was an exceptionally long wait for some of our bags. Coupled with a very lengthy process to clear immigration and customs, elapsed time from Miami to Havana was 7 hours!
On drive to Hotel we briefly stopped in Plaza de Revolucion, a fitting introduction to Cuba. Plaza includes marble statue of Jose Marti and steel outlines of Che Guevara and Camillo Cienfuegos.
Today we gave Alfredo, our GCF Guide, all of the gifts we had brought... clothes, toothpaste, crayons, pens, soaps etc. He has divided them in a way that he can bring appropriate gifts for each people-to-people exchange we have. Along the way, we added the soaps, shampoos, body lotions... from our hotels to the gift collection. This was a very efficient and effective way to distribute gifts and thank the many people who shared their lives and experiences with us.
Staying in Hotel Saratoga... much more modern and upscale than I had expected. Lunch on terrace overlooking Havana with views to Atlantic Ocean... and our first (of many) Mojito!
Thursday, June 14 HAVANA
Fernando from the Ludwig Foundation met us at Hotel and introduced us to the Ludwig Foundation with a specific focus on their efforts to promote Cuban dance companies. 'Cuba is a dancing island'. Cuba is a blend of Cuban tribes, Spaniards and Africans from Nigeria, Senegal, The Congo and other west African countries. They had no common spoken language; used body language and music to communicate. Fernando characterized Cuba as 'very religious', especially Santeria. There are three dance tracks: Religious Dance; Social Dance (celebration, party, in the moment); Artistic Dance. Alicia Alonso is a famous ballerina from Cuba who danced in New York with the ABT. During the Revolution, she stayed in Cuba to build a ballet academy. 'Dance, music and baseball are an organic part of Cuba'.The Ludwig Foundation supports the Ebony Dance Company led by Romero Guedra. We will have opportunity to see a rehearsal on our last day in Cuba. They represent contemporary dance in Cuba.
Old Havana... Havana Vieja
Walking through Havana Vieja, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we experienced musicians playing on a street corner; photographing 15 year old girls for their Quinceanera Celebration; (pink) Hotel El Floridita frequented by Ernest Hemingway in the 1940's. Some buildings date to Spain's occupation of Cuba.
We visited a Senior Center in a Church. The seniors sang for us and danced with us! People can come to the center daily for socialization and meals but they return to their own homes each day.
Buildings in Havana vary from beautiful to crumbling...
How Jews came to Cuba
There are two Jewish Centers in Havana, one Sephardic (Jews from Turkey and
Spain) and one Ashkenazi (Jews from Germany, Poland, Russia). At the Sephardic Jewish Center we met with some of the 'seniors' who were playing bingo and the head of the congregation discussed the center. We had the opportunity to see a video with interviews from Jews who had found exile in Cuba during the mid-20th c.; most left Cuba after the Castro Revolution. They commented on the freedoms they had in Cuba where they were well accepted and free to own and operate businesses; some had participated in the diamond industry in Cuba. Prior to the Castro Revolution there were ~150,000 Jews in Cuba. Today, there are ~1500.
Friday, June 15 Havana
We boarded many BiCitaxis to make our way to the organic food market in Havana... fruit, vegetables, meat...
Organic Food Market and Farm
Starting in the Special Period, after the disintegration of the Soviet Union, Cuba was unable to afford the pesticides that had been used on crops. As a result, the Cubans began organic farming. We visited a large organic farm in the suburbs of Havana where we had a wonderful lunch... talk about fresh vegetables! In their laboratory, they grow beneficial insects intended to destroy those insect that would harm the fruit and vegetables they grow. Btw marigolds were planted at ends of rows to keep the slugs out of the garden - as I have always done!
Museo de Belle Artes (Museum of Fine Arts)
http://www.netssa.com/museum_fine_arts_havana.html
Cuban art from 17th c. to present. In contrast to the USSR where the only art permitted was 'Soviet Realism' in Cuba, art of all forms is permitted and artists are supported by the government.
Wilfr
Eduardo Abela, Guajiros 1938
Early in June 2012, a major international art show was hosted by Cuba. Even the buildings in Havana were 'decorated'... in this case with ants!
Among the 'hints of capitalism' in Cuba is the possibility to sell hand made crafts. While some of these crafts are sold on the street in doorways, there are many women who embroider or make baskets and sell at the Handicrafts Market in booths. In Cienfuegos, we met artists and were able to buy their work.. see Sunday, June 17.
Saturday, June 16 HAVANA TO CIENFUEGOS
Cienfuegos is in the western part of Central Cuba about 4 hours, 232km, SE of Havana. Actually the trip took 8 hours with multiple stops. During the drive Oscar 'lectured' on history, religion and many other topics. This pattern was repeated during most bus rides. I have done my best to categorize these topics and related comments at the end of this document. If any reader has additional or more accurate information or a different perspective, please let me know.
The roads were in good shape in contrast to my experience in 'the Stans' last September where pot holes abounded and drives took significantly longer than the distance and speed limits would suggest. I compare Cuba and the ex-soviet countries of Central Asia since they all suffered following the fall of the USSR... perhaps for different reasons.
We are traveling during the end of the typical tourist season. Weather is hot, humid and periodically rainy. Most Canadian and Europeans travel to Cuba's all-inclusive resorts during the winter months to escape the cold.
Outside of Cienfuegos we stopped to see a street vendor making sandwiches of shredded pork and displaying the whole roasted pig on his cart. The cart was next to a park where children were playing... we were curious about each other.
We had a chance to experience the availability and efficiency of the Cuban medical system. As we crossed street to return to our bus, Linda slipped on the wet ground and landed hard on her shoulder. Our next stop was at a medical clinic where she was seen immediately, her scratches cleaned and she received diagnoses of 'mild trauma'. Fortunately she did not break or tear anything! The process was easy and Linda paid $8.00 for the service. Our plane tickets from Miami to Havana included $30 for medical insurance while in Cuba.
We proceeded to the Hotel La Union. We had lunch on our own; several of us chose the privately owned Paladar Paris.
After lunch we walked toward the waterfront stopping in a private home to visit and get a first hand look at how they live. It is very hot & humid. Alfredo had met the owner of the home and encouraged her to open her home for tourists so that she can make some money. While there were many rooms, most were sparsely furnished. GCF pays her a small amount and guide brings gifts.
Before dinner at the Hotel La Union, we were treated to a Choral Group of professionals; excellent a capella.
Sunday June 17 CIENFUEGOS
Walk to Jardins de la UNEAC- National Union of Artists and Writers. Greeted by President of UNEAC, Orlando.... who introduced artists, including Rafael... VP UNEAC and representative of the party - a 'militant'. 196 Union members in Cienfuegos, 51 are women; ages range from 21 to 98 mixing multiple generations; mix of religions, pluralistic; different sexual orientations, diverse ideological beliefs, including 6 militants of the Communist Party. They are 'citizens with rights' working toward consensus. UNEAC is a school and cultural center. According to Orlando, they have met with the highest authorities (Fidel and Raul) to fight for changes such as immigration and travel policies for Cubans. "What made sense 50 years ago does not make sense today." An issue they took to government is the (now past) rule that Cubans could not go to Hotels for tourists. In fact, today at the Hotel La Union there was a family with several children who came to Hotel and paid for use of the swimming pool for the day. In this very hot and humid weather, what a pleasure to spend Father's Day at the pool!
After discussion with Orlando, we visited a gallery at UNEAC and then visited studios and homes of several of the artists. A wonderful opportunity to meet these artists and their families! I bought two photographs...
Following are photos of the home of a photographer...
Also, in Cienfuegos a sculptor's home we visited is in this Soviet-style cement block apartment house.
Lunch at Hotel and off to hear a children's band -- wonderful.
After a rest and a shower, we had dinner at La Casa Verde at the waterfront. A Cuban turkey dinner for Father's Day... roast turkey, rice, mixed vegetables, salad. Evening activity was a Salsa Band, Los Naranjos, at the UNEAC Garden... good music and we danced and danced with the locals!
Monday, June 18 Cienfuegos to Trinidad
Jardin Botanico de Soledad (Cienfuegos) in 1912 sugar baron Edward Atkins turned part of his estate into a sugar research center and acquired and planted many tropical plants. In 1919 Harvard University bought the property and turned it into a botanical institute for the study of sugar cane and Caribbean flora. The garden, one of the largest in Latin America, has been run by the Cuban government since 1961.
During drive to Trinidad, Alfredo told the story of his Father, a Costa Rican, now 81 years old and living in the US since 1965. For a period of his life he had been a 'mercenary' who had offered to fight for Castro in 1958. When he decided to immigrate to the US he told immigration that he had offered to fight for the Americans in Korea in 1954; the US gave him a green card and he brought his family to the US. Alfredo is now living in Costa Rica with his wife and sons.
Trinidad- east of Cienfuegos ~100km, on the Caribbean coast of Central Cuba is a well preserved colonial city of ~60,000 people was founded in 16th century by Spaniard, Diego Velazquez and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. Trinidad was a major center for sugar and slaves during the 1600's - 1800's under the umbrella of Spain. I note this is similar to Paraty, Brazil where Spain brought slaves from Africa to mine gold and ship it back to Spain. Paraty is south of Rio de Janeiro on Brazil's Atlantic Coast. And, perhaps, to similar to the Southern U.S. where slaves were brought from Africa to work the cotton fields.
Trinidad has Spanish colonial architecture with narrow cobblestone streets; the historic center has been recently restored. Hotel Rhonda is in an old building but recently remodeled. Interior is quite contemporary and well decorated with comfortable beds. We were greeted by musicians playing and a welcome drink with (or without) rum.
Excellent dinner at Hotel Rhonda. All agreed... I had lobster medallions in a white wine sauce which was well prepared and most tasty. Lobsters are langouste so we eat only the tails. With each meal that is included in the price, we get two drinks such as mojito, wine, cervesa. There is a great bar on the Terrace on the second floor. Juvenitos, bartender, makes an awesome Mojito, speaks great English (had taught English but became a bartender to make more money) and he can dance! He is referenced on the internet in the Hotel Rhonda's web site.
After dinner we moved to the terrace with the band for drinks and dancing? Alfredo says we are the 'dancingest' group he has led :-)
Tuesday, June 19 Trinidad
After an excellent breakfast we visited what had been the Iznaga Family Sugar plantation. Demonstration of 'pressing' juice from cane... served us a glass with/without rum. For exercise, a few of us climbed 136 steps up and down a tower supposedly used to check on slaves working in sugar cane fields.
It has been raining all day... water running through streets like a river! We walked to bodega where Cubans get their monthly food rations. A small amount of food but enough as a base; cost is = less than $1 per month per person. Goal is to avoid starvation... each family augments this ration with food they buy at markets using money earned working.
History Museum...great building ... filled with German and Dutch tourists today. While there was a story to tell the rooms were quite spare. Building was built and owned by a wealthy sugar family.Drove through new area of Trinidad... housing in blocky, concrete Soviet style. While these buildings are spare, there are homes for all.
Santeria... we visited a Santero who explained this religion where he practices in his home (see SANTERIA)
Lunch at Sol Ananda, (Frente a la Plaza Mayor) a Paladar in the 3rd oldest building in Trinidad. While we had a choice where to eat since this was 'free time' we all went to same restaurant. They had a great band playing and really good food. One room was the wine cellar with a dining table. Owner told me there are two bedrooms upstairs that one can rent.. a B& B! Still pouring outside!
Afternoon visit to Maternity Hospital was canceled. Apparently a 'weather alert' has been issued and tour buses are not supposed to transport tourists.
So, Alfredo arranged for dance lessons for the afternoon:-) Hotel waiter was our dance instructors assisted by women on staff - maids, receptionist... all joined in as we danced in the Dining Room.
Excellent dinner at Davimart, Paladar and Casa Particular (B&B). Welcome drink of water, honey, lemon, rum! Appetizer of tomato stuffed with tuna and pasta on bed of grated cabbage and carrots, vegetable bisque, lobster, dessert, white wine, agua gaseado. Because of the torrential rain, Alfredo had bus drive to the door of the Paladar which is against the law. A conundrum... government has encouraged private business but does not allow bus to drop tourists directly at the door of a Paladar, a private business! David Aloma is owner/chef. Studied in France. Promoted on Trip Advisor and is on Facebook. Davimart61@yahoo.es www.tripadvisor.com Calle Anastasio Cardenas 58 esquina Simon Bolivar.
Wednesday, June 20 Trinidad
Implementing 'Plan B'... given the continuing downpour we are unable to take bus to the mountains so we will drive to Santa Clara about 2.5 hour drive. Santa Clara is where Che Guevara fought his last battle of the Castro revolution and where Che is buried. Oops! Looks like 'Plan C' is in play for today. Rain has caused the road to Santa Clara to be closed, so off to see the beach resorts on the Caribbean, a basket making enterprise and sites in Trinidad.
Driving to the sea we saw men fishing from the road where water had flooded. Standing on side of road throwing nets into the current, they were catching dozens of tilapia. Some fish could be sold to the markets and some eaten by the families. On Peninsula Ancon we visited the all-inclusive Club Ancon; walked the beach. Fortunately it is not raining - now. GCF had stayed at the Las Brisas resort on its initial trips to Cuba. However the distance from the city of Trinidad and failing infrastructure caused them to move. Fortunately we have the pleasure of staying in the Hotel Rhonda.
Guide commented that the resorts on the north side of the island on the Atlantic Ocean, such as in Varadero, are far superior to these on the Caribbean. Many are joint ventures with French, Spanish and German companies. Canadians and Europeans travel to these resorts rather than Mexico to escape their winter.
We visited a factory for basket making... all women. Many have been working here for 20 - 40 years. Lunch in town and back to Hotel to catch up on daily journal- the text for this blog. No internet so can not actually create blog day by day.
Dinner at Hotel... buffet with salad, soup, turkey, fish, cake... two drinks... white wine is not bad.
There was a band playing quietly during dinner; the beat picked up by dessert and we danced our way around the dining room... guests, maids, wait staff, bartenders... all danced!
After dinner we moved to the street where a band was practicing for Carnival this weekend. about 30 dancers performed a Cuban line dance with intricate moves!
Thursday, June 21 Trinidad/Havana
Underway at 8:30 am. Returning to Havana. With 'banos' stops, lunch (box lunch at restaurant along road) and Hemingway's home in Havana suburb, we arrived at Hotel Nacional at 4:30 pm. We were tired and the Hotel was a madhouse! Many tour groups arrived at the same time so it took a while to get our room keys and welcome drink. We waited in the bar where there are photos of film celebrities, world politicians, artists, writers... who have visited Cuba over the years - mostly before the Revolution.
Ernest Hemingway lived in Cuba from 1940 - 1960 in a suburb of Havana, San Francisco de Paula in a home he bought for $18,500 in 1940. With gardens, swimming pool and a large home it is a mansion. Hemingway write "For Whom the Bell Tolls" here and was living here when he received the Nobel Prize for Literature.
A wonderful evening at the Ludwig Foundation. Welcome by Elmo ?? the President of the Foundation, an overview by Albaro ... an excellent buffet dinner where 1-2 young artists sat at each table with us. FredLee will have a Dinner Party in New York this August when 5 of these young artists will be visiting Boston (GCF), Vermont and New York. There is an NGO in New York 'American Friends of the Ludwig Foundation’...
http://www.aflfc.org/eng/whoweare/ludwig.html
Friday, June 22 HAVANA
We visited a privately owned Day Care Center for 2-4 year old children operated by the Sisters of Love of God. Many teachers, Doctors, Social Workers and Psychologists volunteer their time to support this organization. Most of the children come from dysfunctional homes and have one parent.
This afternoon we were treated to a rehearsal of the Ebony Dance Company which was formed one year eight months ago in November 2010 as a private business ... a very short time for the company to coalesce. They are performing locally as a Company but the dancers individually have performed around the world. One couple has performed together for 13 years. Through the Ludwig Foundation, GCF was made aware of this group and their need for support. Hopefully they will have a bright future!
Tomas and Jorge Rodriguez, Cuban citizens who have agreed to speak with GCF groups, presented their opinion on what is required to improve relations between these countries. Fundamentally it requires a willingness on the part of both countries to agree to problems and resolve them with actions on both sides. Their PowerPoint presentation is included below. Remember, these ideas are the opinions of these two men in their 50's. One component of the change requires that internet be readily available to businesses and individuals in Cuba. A fiber optic line has been laid under the sea from Venezuela to Santiago de Cuba. Jorge did not know how they would connect this fiber to businesses and homes on the island.
Farewell dinner at ... Paladar in Havana Vieja. Highlight of evening was the ride back to Hotel in 1950's convertibles!
Saturday, June 23 Havana/ Miami/ Denver Travel Day
Today we return home! As always I have mixed emotions... would love to continue traveling in Cuba and add to my great experiences and ready to go home. I just plan to return to Cuba:-)
We left Hotel at 8:45am. It took about an hour to check in, pay departure tax (25 CUC), clear immigration and then wait for flight.
ABOUT CUBA
A mixture of colors... If there were 100 people in Cuba, 65 would be white, 25 mulatto and 10 would be black.Many facts and figures about Cuba have been communicated at various times during our discussions; I consolidate them here.
COMMUNITY SERVICES
Garbage Collection
JOSE MARTI
Most famous writer, poet, philosopher, revolutionary - arguing for the rights of the people. Statue in Revolution Square, Havana. Photo of Dyann and Sue with Summit Daily in front of Jose Marti statue in Cienfuego.
HOME OWNERSHIP
New in 2008 Cubans are able to own a home but the state retains ownership of the land. Homes can be purchased ...SOCIALIZING
Cubans 'live on the street' - sitting, talking, drinking, dancing on Malecon whether in Havana or Cienfuegos or ... too hot to stay inside; no air conditioning
Salsa bands play everywhere and Cubans of all ages love to dance.
MODES OF TRANSPORTATION ...
Only 20% of Cubans own an automobile, all others travel by foot, bicycle, bus, taxis - Russian Ladas, 1950 vintage American cars, pedicabs, cocotaxis, BiCitaxis -, horse drawn carts, hitch hike, horse, ...
People hitch hike everywhere, it is considered safe. Typically there is a person wearing yellow clothes - Amarillos - who organizes the hitch hikers stopping cars and trucks for them. Government vehicles are required to stop for hitch hikers.
You can tell the ownership and use of a vehicle by the color of its license plate.
Yellow - private
Red - rental car
Black - diplomat; US Intersection plates start with 201
Blue - government owned taxis or vehicles
Mint - Ministry of Interior (CIA)
White - government ministers
Olive Green - military
Light Brown - directors of government
Orange - religious institutions or cars of foreigners in joint venture
Roads between Havana, Cienfuegos and Trinidad were good enough to support the 100 km/hr speed limit. There are checkpoints between provinces; police check for contraband such as lobster and beef which
are intended for the tourist trade, drugs, stolen products headed for the black market.
Horse drawn carriage and CoCoTaxi
MONEY
Two currencies - local peso and convertible peso or CUC
1 CUC = 24 local pesos; 1 € = 1.16 CUC; 1 $ = .87 CUC
EDUCATION
The best description of Cuba's education system is included in the Summer 2012 Connecticut College Alumni Magazine in an article Spring break: Havana.
"History major Karina Hernandez '14 says the trip opened her eyes. 'Everybody was educated. Almost every person I met was more aware of what is going on in the world than the average American.' she says. 'Cuba truly offers a first-world education in a third-world economy'." I could not have said it better! Education is free for all Cubans from Day care through Vocational School and/or University.
HEALTH CARE
Health care is free for all Cubans. As travelers, $30 gave us access to the Health Care system.Medical Doctors
After graduation from Medical School which is 'free', paid by Government, each doctor is required to do 2-3 years social service. Many are deployed to local clinics. Some do Post Graduate studies outside of Cuba, sometimes in Canada or France.Maternity Care
Women work until they are 7 months pregnant and then go on maternity leave at full pay. This leave lasts for 1 year after birth.
When there are medical or social complications during pregnancy, women can go to a Maternal Home where they stay an average of 30-35 days. Their families and friends can visit. The home, like a dormitory, is staffed by a Dr and Nurse. This is a free service.Mental Health Care - freeSALARIES
Medical Doctors are paid 300 pesos per month initially and can make as much as 800 pesos when experienced.
Nurses and Police make the largest salaries since their services are required and they are in short supply... few want the job so the government uses money as an incentive! In addition, nurses and police are able to buy appliances and clothes for local pesos while all others pay in CUC. Considering that 1 CUC = 24 CUC, this is a considerable saving.
On January 29, 2014 PolitoFact.com published the following article about Cuba's health care and affect on low child mortality and long lives.
http://www.politifact.com/truth-o-meter/statements/2014/jan/31/tom-harkin/sen-tom-harkin-says-cuba-has-lower-child-mortality/
RELIGION IN CUBA
CATHOLICISM
SANTERIA
The spirit told him of meaningful artifacts that were buried in his house. His Father dug into the floor and found these objects. While the Government confiscated the objects of apparent value, he was able to save 'stones' which have significance representing energies and are used in secret rituals. This home is an UNESCO World Heritage site. Occasionally, the Santero has visions.
JUDAISM
Before the Castro Revolution there were 150,000 Jews in Cuba where they were treated well- equal to other Cuban citizens. They emigrated from Spain and Turkey (Sephardic) and from Eastern Europe, Russia and Germany (Ashkenazi) to avoid persecution. These Jews owned businesses including Diamonds. With Castro and Communism and the pending nationalization of these businesses and distribution if wealth to all people, the vast majority of the Jewish community left Cuba for the United States. Today there are only 1500 Jews in Cuba and two synagogues. We visited the Sephardic Jewish Center that has a Senior Center, a place for socializing.Street Drugs, Alcohol
Street drugs are not a social problem in Cuba. Drugs are not found in schools, public places because availability low and penalties severe. For example, the 'neighborhood watch' CDR is everywhere.
Cigarette and cigar smoking are widespread. We were disappointed to see members of the Ebony Dance Company smoking after they performed for us.Typically, Cubans drink coffee, beer and rum not wine. We were offered Mojitos or Cuba Libre as a 'welcome drink' in every restaurant!
FOOD RATIONS
Every month each Cuban gets a food ration book which they redeem at a government store for specific foods. While the 10 oz. of chick peas is small for an entire month, this base level of food is intended to keep people from starving. Additional food is available for purchase with money earned working. The monthly food ration can be considered a 'safety net'.
POLITICAL SYSTEM AND PHILOSOPHY (last updated by SG on July 14, 2012)
From 1902 - 1958, Cuba was run by a series of authoritarian Presidents with financial and commercial support from the US. The 1940's and 50's were the heyday of Batista and the Mafia-supported casinos and clubs and corruption. During this period there were many very rich people, a small middle class and large number of poor people - significant and obvious differences between social classes. The education and health care systems were lacking. In 1959, Fidel Castro and his revolutionary brothers Camille Cienfuegos and Che Guevara, created a new system of government; a Cuban variant of Communism. They built an education system from day care through university requiring all to attend through 9th grade. All levels of school are free, including University, Medical School, all graduate level education ... They built and staffed a universal health care system free to all. In contrast to the USSR, the arts were encouraged to flourish. Schools for artists are free. The goal of this government has been equality for all... eliminating the class distinctions that had separated Cubans before. (Of course, goals and reality sometimes part company. SG)
Until 1989 when the USSR broke up, the USSR provided financial support to Cuba. Following the Bay of Pigs and the Cuban Missile Crisis, the US instituted an embargo not only blocking US trade with Cuba but also penalizing non-US businesses that traded with Cuba... they would not be permitted to do business with US entities. (An excerpt from Wikipedia below provides more details of the embargo.)The 'Special Period' began in 1990 when the USSR no longer existed and Russia no longer supported Cuba. In 2006, Fidel stepped down and his brother Raul took over as 'Commander in Chief'. With the government lacking the funds to support all people equally, Raul has introduced the possibility of some private small businesses permitting people to augment their government issued rations and living with additional money. Even this low level of capitalism begins to create distinctions in social classes and begins to create a middle class. Slogans, Billboards, TV "Propaganda"Much communication by the government to the people is accomplished through billboards along the road ways. Included area sampling of billboards we saw.
Bay of Pigs invasion April, 1961 (at Playa Giron). U.S. CIA-sponsored invasion by Cuban exiles. This unsuccessful attempt to overthrow the Castro
government is remembered in billboards as a victory for the homeland.
Source: Wikipedia The U.S. Embargo against Cuba.
The U.S. embargo is a commercial, economic, and financial embargo partially imposed on Cuba in October 1960 (almost two years after the Batista regime was deposed by the Cuban Revolution.) It was enacted after Cuba nationalized the properties of United States citizens and corporations and it was strengthened to a near-total embargo on February 7, 1962.[1]. Titled the Cuban Democracy Act, the embargo was codified into law in 1992 with the stated purpose of maintaining sanctions on Cuba so long as the Cuban government continues to refuse to move toward "democratization and greater respect for human rights."[2] In 1996, Congress passed the Helms-Burton Act, which further restricted United States citizens from doing business in or with Cuba, and mandated restrictions on giving public or private assistance to any successor government in Havana unless and until certain claims against the Cuban government are met. In 1999, U.S. President Bill Clinton expanded the trade embargo even further by ending the practice of foreign subsidiaries of U.S. companies trading with Cuba. In 2000, Clinton authorized the sale of certain "humanitarian" US products to Cuba.
Beyond human rights, the United States holds $6 billion worth of financial claims against the Cuban government.[3] The Cuban-American position is that the U. S. embargo is, in part, an appropriate response to these unaddressed claims.[4] It has been argued that pro-embargo Cuban-American exiles, whose votes are crucial in Florida, have swayed many politicians to also adopt similar views.[5] The Cuban-American views have been opposed by some business leaders who argue that trading freely would be good for Cuba and the United States.[6]
At present, the embargo, which limits American businesses from conducting business with Cuban interests, is still in effect and is the most enduring trade embargo in modern history. Despite the existence of the embargo, the United States is the fifth largest exporter to Cuba (6.6% of Cuba's imports are from the US).[7] However, Cuba must pay cash for all imports, as credit is not allowed.[8]The Obama administration made slight changes to the restrictions on U.S. travel to Cuba. On April 13, 2009, President Barack Obama loosened the travel ban, now allowing Cuban-Americans to travel freely to the country;[23] and on January 14, 2011 he further loosened the ban, by allowing students and religious missionaries to travel to Cuba if they meet certain restrictions.[24] The President has outlined a series of steps that Cuba could take to demonstrate a willingness to open its closed society, including releasing political prisoners, allowing United States telecommunications companies to operate on the island and ending government fees on U.S. dollars sent by relatives in the United States. In confirmation hearings for the position of Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton said that she believed that the ban on Cuban-American family travel should be lifted.[25]
This embargo is brought to the front of Cubans minds with many billboards referencing 'Bloqueo'. In this billboard, Cuba is punching Uncle Sam.
"Only Socialism will Overcome the Difficulties"
CHALLENGES FOR THE FUTURE OF CUBA...
Challenges for the future of Cuba include the socialism/capitalism balancing act and the reduction/elimination of the U.S. embargo. On June 22 at the Hotel Nacional, Jorge and Tomas Rodriguez (Cuban citizens) shared their "Personal Vision About U.S. - Cuba Relations" with our Grand Circle Foundation group. Charts from their power point presentation follow. This certainly is 'food for thought'.
Chart 1: U.S - Cuba Relations before Revolution
Chart 2: Triumph of Revolution, nationalizations and Bay of Pigs
Chart 3: October Crisis and Direct Confrontations
Chart 4: The 70s and 80s
Chart 5: The Special Period
Chart 6: Economic Recovery and Fidel Illness
Chart 7: The Raul and Obama Era
Chart 8: Terrorist attacks. Isolation.
Chart 9: Cuban Positions
Chart 10: What can we do?
Chart 11: What U.S. and Cuba should do to improve their relations?
Promoting Cuba's participation
in the 2012 Olympics
WHAT DO AMERICANS THINK ABOUT US-CUBA RELATIONS?
In January 2012, ANGUS REID Public Opinion (the public affairs practice of VisionCritical, a Canadian company) conducted a poll; the results of their research is reported below. (I found this on the internet. SG)
Most Americans Willing to Re-establish Ties with Cuba
A majority of respondents also wants to lift the travel ban that prevents
most Americans from visiting Cuba.
[NEW YORK – Feb. 6, 2012] - People in the United States are ready to change their country’s interaction with Cuba, a new Angus Reid Public
Opinion poll has found.
In the online survey of a representative national sample of 1,008 American adults, three-in-five respondents (62%) agree with the U.S. reestablishing diplomatic relations with Cuba, while one-in-four (23%) disagree.
Majorities of Independents (67%), Democrats (64%) and Republicans (56%) agree with re-instituting bilateral ties. In March 2009, U.S. President Barack Obama eased travel restrictions to Cuba, and allowed U.S. citizens to travel to the island for religious and cultural reasons. Most Americans (57%)
believe it is time to lift the travel ban that prevents most Americans from visiting the island. Half of Americans (51%) would lift the trade embargo with Cuba that has been in place since the 1960s, while three-in-ten (29%) disagree. Most Democrats (53%) and Independents (55%) support
ending the embargo, but Republicans are not as convinced (46%).
KEY FINDINGS
62% would re-establish diplomatic relations with Cuba
57% would lift the travel ban that prevents most Americans from visiting
Cuba
51% would lift the trade embargo with Cuba
Full topline results are at the end of this release.
From January 27 to January 28, 2012, Angus Reid Public
Opinion conducted an online survey among 1,008 American adults who are Springboard America panelists. The margin of error—which measures sampling variability—is +/- 3.1%. The results have been statistically weighted according to the most current education, age, gender and region Census data to ensure a sample representative of the entire adult population of the United States. Discrepancies in or between totals are due to rounding.
On July 26, 2012, the following article from Reuters on Cuba's expanding economic reforms....
REVOLUTIONARIES
CHE GUEVARA
Definitely a national hero!
(Add Bio of Che}
Killed in Bolivia at 39 years old by order from CIA. Body returned to Cuba in 1997 to Santa Clara. Proclaimed a Cuban citizen 'by birth'.
FIDEL CASTRO (Bio to be added)CAMILLO CIENFUEGOS (Bio to be added)
Five Cuban Heroes
" End the injustice"
Five Cuban men sent by the Cuban government to Miami to infiltrate an anti-Castro organization. They were discovered and prosecuted by the US Courts as 'terrorists'. Now serving significant prison sentences in US. Cuba says their goal was to gain knowledge to oppose terrorism and that they were unjustly prosecuted.
WHAT IS NEXT FOR CUBA?
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/25/world/americas/raul-castro-to-step-down-as-cubas-president-in-2018.html
On Sunday, February 24, 2013 Raul Castro was elected to his second 5-year term as President of Cuba. To the surprise of many, Raul announced Manuel Diaz-Canal Bermudez, 52, as his successor.
Let's see what happens next!
Camille Dautrich, fellow GCF traveler, has written an article for her local newspaper. Click link to read her excellent summary!
http://www.news-leader.com/
GUIDES
Alfredo Valverde, GCF alfredo3224@gmail.com
Oscar Rodriguez Martin, Havanatours sendmeanywhere2009@yahoo.com
Frank, driver, Transtur
OUR GCF GROUP
Additional information about Cuba's history and political system are included at the end of this blog, after our day-by-day itinerary.
The Capital building in Havana was completed in 1931 and resembles the U.S. Capitol.
Looking at cars in Havana takes one back to the U.S. in the 1950's. This pink Plymouth is a taxi!
Since July 2011, the United States Department of the Treasury permits licensed organizations to engage in travel 'which includes a full-time schedule of Educational Exchange Activities involving extensive People-to-People contact in Cuba…' With agreement from the Cuban Government the doors are ‘ajar’. Americans cannot travel as tourists unless they enter Cuba through another country. The Grand Circle Foundation, the nonprofit arm of Grand Circle Tours, is one of many organizations now offering trips to Cuba from the U.S.
Tuesday, June 12 Denver/Miami, FL
After departing home at 4:30am for Denver Airport, at 740am on AA heading for Miami and a charter flight to Havana. On my way!
Overnight at Sheraton Airport Hotel in Miami....most comfortable beds! We met with GCF Tour Guide Alfredo Valverde and group - introductions and overview of trip. We are 20 travelers representative of the US - from CA, NY, ID, MI, CO, NM, MO.
Wednesday, June 13 Miami to Havana
But where is my small bag? When all the bags were loaded, smaller bags were put on top. During flight, bags shifted and smaller bags fell from top to bottom, thus were last to be off loaded! Result was an exceptionally long wait for some of our bags. Coupled with a very lengthy process to clear immigration and customs, elapsed time from Miami to Havana was 7 hours!
On drive to Hotel we briefly stopped in Plaza de Revolucion, a fitting introduction to Cuba. Plaza includes marble statue of Jose Marti and steel outlines of Che Guevara and Camillo Cienfuegos.
Today we gave Alfredo, our GCF Guide, all of the gifts we had brought... clothes, toothpaste, crayons, pens, soaps etc. He has divided them in a way that he can bring appropriate gifts for each people-to-people exchange we have. Along the way, we added the soaps, shampoos, body lotions... from our hotels to the gift collection. This was a very efficient and effective way to distribute gifts and thank the many people who shared their lives and experiences with us.
Staying in Hotel Saratoga... much more modern and upscale than I had expected. Lunch on terrace overlooking Havana with views to Atlantic Ocean... and our first (of many) Mojito!
Thursday, June 14 HAVANA
Fernando from the Ludwig Foundation met us at Hotel and introduced us to the Ludwig Foundation with a specific focus on their efforts to promote Cuban dance companies. 'Cuba is a dancing island'. Cuba is a blend of Cuban tribes, Spaniards and Africans from Nigeria, Senegal, The Congo and other west African countries. They had no common spoken language; used body language and music to communicate. Fernando characterized Cuba as 'very religious', especially Santeria. There are three dance tracks: Religious Dance; Social Dance (celebration, party, in the moment); Artistic Dance. Alicia Alonso is a famous ballerina from Cuba who danced in New York with the ABT. During the Revolution, she stayed in Cuba to build a ballet academy. 'Dance, music and baseball are an organic part of Cuba'.The Ludwig Foundation supports the Ebony Dance Company led by Romero Guedra. We will have opportunity to see a rehearsal on our last day in Cuba. They represent contemporary dance in Cuba.
Old Havana... Havana Vieja
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| 15 yr old girls celebrate Qinceanera |
Walking through Havana Vieja, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we experienced musicians playing on a street corner; photographing 15 year old girls for their Quinceanera Celebration; (pink) Hotel El Floridita frequented by Ernest Hemingway in the 1940's. Some buildings date to Spain's occupation of Cuba.
We visited a Senior Center in a Church. The seniors sang for us and danced with us! People can come to the center daily for socialization and meals but they return to their own homes each day.
Buildings in Havana vary from beautiful to crumbling... 
How Jews came to Cuba
There are two Jewish Centers in Havana, one Sephardic (Jews from Turkey and Spain) and one Ashkenazi (Jews from Germany, Poland, Russia). At the Sephardic Jewish Center we met with some of the 'seniors' who were playing bingo and the head of the congregation discussed the center. We had the opportunity to see a video with interviews from Jews who had found exile in Cuba during the mid-20th c.; most left Cuba after the Castro Revolution. They commented on the freedoms they had in Cuba where they were well accepted and free to own and operate businesses; some had participated in the diamond industry in Cuba. Prior to the Castro Revolution there were ~150,000 Jews in Cuba. Today, there are ~1500.
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| Story of family fled Nazi Germany; in Cuba enjoyed freedom, built diamond processing business; to U.S. when Castro nationalized industry. |
Friday, June 15 Havana
We boarded many BiCitaxis to make our way to the organic food market in Havana... fruit, vegetables, meat...Organic Food Market and Farm
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| Entrance to food market |
Starting in the Special Period, after the disintegration of the Soviet Union, Cuba was unable to afford the pesticides that had been used on crops. As a result, the Cubans began organic farming. We visited a large organic farm in the suburbs of Havana where we had a wonderful lunch... talk about fresh vegetables! In their laboratory, they grow beneficial insects intended to destroy those insect that would harm the fruit and vegetables they grow. Btw marigolds were planted at ends of rows to keep the slugs out of the garden - as I have always done!
Museo de Belle Artes (Museum of Fine Arts)
http://www.netssa.com/museum_fine_arts_havana.html
Cuban art from 17th c. to present. In contrast to the USSR where the only art permitted was 'Soviet Realism' in Cuba, art of all forms is permitted and artists are supported by the government.
Wilfr
Eduardo Abela, Guajiros 1938 Early in June 2012, a major international art show was hosted by Cuba. Even the buildings in Havana were 'decorated'... in this case with ants!
Among the 'hints of capitalism' in Cuba is the possibility to sell hand made crafts. While some of these crafts are sold on the street in doorways, there are many women who embroider or make baskets and sell at the Handicrafts Market in booths. In Cienfuegos, we met artists and were able to buy their work.. see Sunday, June 17.
Saturday, June 16 HAVANA TO CIENFUEGOS
Cienfuegos is in the western part of Central Cuba about 4 hours, 232km, SE of Havana. Actually the trip took 8 hours with multiple stops. During the drive Oscar 'lectured' on history, religion and many other topics. This pattern was repeated during most bus rides. I have done my best to categorize these topics and related comments at the end of this document. If any reader has additional or more accurate information or a different perspective, please let me know.
The roads were in good shape in contrast to my experience in 'the Stans' last September where pot holes abounded and drives took significantly longer than the distance and speed limits would suggest. I compare Cuba and the ex-soviet countries of Central Asia since they all suffered following the fall of the USSR... perhaps for different reasons.
We are traveling during the end of the typical tourist season. Weather is hot, humid and periodically rainy. Most Canadian and Europeans travel to Cuba's all-inclusive resorts during the winter months to escape the cold.
Outside of Cienfuegos we stopped to see a street vendor making sandwiches of shredded pork and displaying the whole roasted pig on his cart. The cart was next to a park where children were playing... we were curious about each other.
We had a chance to experience the availability and efficiency of the Cuban medical system. As we crossed street to return to our bus, Linda slipped on the wet ground and landed hard on her shoulder. Our next stop was at a medical clinic where she was seen immediately, her scratches cleaned and she received diagnoses of 'mild trauma'. Fortunately she did not break or tear anything! The process was easy and Linda paid $8.00 for the service. Our plane tickets from Miami to Havana included $30 for medical insurance while in Cuba.
We proceeded to the Hotel La Union. We had lunch on our own; several of us chose the privately owned Paladar Paris.
After lunch we walked toward the waterfront stopping in a private home to visit and get a first hand look at how they live. It is very hot & humid. Alfredo had met the owner of the home and encouraged her to open her home for tourists so that she can make some money. While there were many rooms, most were sparsely furnished. GCF pays her a small amount and guide brings gifts.
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| Living Room |
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| Bed Room |
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| Kitchen |
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| View from Roof |
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| Stairs to Roof |
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| Pigs on roof... |
Before dinner at the Hotel La Union, we were treated to a Choral Group of professionals; excellent a capella.
Sunday June 17 CIENFUEGOS
Walk to Jardins de la UNEAC- National Union of Artists and Writers. Greeted by President of UNEAC, Orlando.... who introduced artists, including Rafael... VP UNEAC and representative of the party - a 'militant'. 196 Union members in Cienfuegos, 51 are women; ages range from 21 to 98 mixing multiple generations; mix of religions, pluralistic; different sexual orientations, diverse ideological beliefs, including 6 militants of the Communist Party. They are 'citizens with rights' working toward consensus. UNEAC is a school and cultural center. According to Orlando, they have met with the highest authorities (Fidel and Raul) to fight for changes such as immigration and travel policies for Cubans. "What made sense 50 years ago does not make sense today." An issue they took to government is the (now past) rule that Cubans could not go to Hotels for tourists. In fact, today at the Hotel La Union there was a family with several children who came to Hotel and paid for use of the swimming pool for the day. In this very hot and humid weather, what a pleasure to spend Father's Day at the pool!
After discussion with Orlando, we visited a gallery at UNEAC and then visited studios and homes of several of the artists. A wonderful opportunity to meet these artists and their families! I bought two photographs...
Following are photos of the home of a photographer...
Lunch at Hotel and off to hear a children's band -- wonderful.
After a rest and a shower, we had dinner at La Casa Verde at the waterfront. A Cuban turkey dinner for Father's Day... roast turkey, rice, mixed vegetables, salad. Evening activity was a Salsa Band, Los Naranjos, at the UNEAC Garden... good music and we danced and danced with the locals!
Monday, June 18 Cienfuegos to Trinidad
Jardin Botanico de Soledad (Cienfuegos) in 1912 sugar baron Edward Atkins turned part of his estate into a sugar research center and acquired and planted many tropical plants. In 1919 Harvard University bought the property and turned it into a botanical institute for the study of sugar cane and Caribbean flora. The garden, one of the largest in Latin America, has been run by the Cuban government since 1961.
During drive to Trinidad, Alfredo told the story of his Father, a Costa Rican, now 81 years old and living in the US since 1965. For a period of his life he had been a 'mercenary' who had offered to fight for Castro in 1958. When he decided to immigrate to the US he told immigration that he had offered to fight for the Americans in Korea in 1954; the US gave him a green card and he brought his family to the US. Alfredo is now living in Costa Rica with his wife and sons.
Trinidad- east of Cienfuegos ~100km, on the Caribbean coast of Central Cuba is a well preserved colonial city of ~60,000 people was founded in 16th century by Spaniard, Diego Velazquez and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. Trinidad was a major center for sugar and slaves during the 1600's - 1800's under the umbrella of Spain. I note this is similar to Paraty, Brazil where Spain brought slaves from Africa to mine gold and ship it back to Spain. Paraty is south of Rio de Janeiro on Brazil's Atlantic Coast. And, perhaps, to similar to the Southern U.S. where slaves were brought from Africa to work the cotton fields.
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| Staff, Hotel Rhonda |
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| Bed's decorated daily! |
Excellent dinner at Hotel Rhonda. All agreed... I had lobster medallions in a white wine sauce which was well prepared and most tasty. Lobsters are langouste so we eat only the tails. With each meal that is included in the price, we get two drinks such as mojito, wine, cervesa. There is a great bar on the Terrace on the second floor. Juvenitos, bartender, makes an awesome Mojito, speaks great English (had taught English but became a bartender to make more money) and he can dance! He is referenced on the internet in the Hotel Rhonda's web site.
After dinner we moved to the terrace with the band for drinks and dancing? Alfredo says we are the 'dancingest' group he has led :-)
Tuesday, June 19 Trinidad
After an excellent breakfast we visited what had been the Iznaga Family Sugar plantation. Demonstration of 'pressing' juice from cane... served us a glass with/without rum. For exercise, a few of us climbed 136 steps up and down a tower supposedly used to check on slaves working in sugar cane fields.
It has been raining all day... water running through streets like a river! We walked to bodega where Cubans get their monthly food rations. A small amount of food but enough as a base; cost is = less than $1 per month per person. Goal is to avoid starvation... each family augments this ration with food they buy at markets using money earned working.
History Museum...great building ... filled with German and Dutch tourists today. While there was a story to tell the rooms were quite spare. Building was built and owned by a wealthy sugar family.Drove through new area of Trinidad... housing in blocky, concrete Soviet style. While these buildings are spare, there are homes for all.
Santeria... we visited a Santero who explained this religion where he practices in his home (see SANTERIA)
Lunch at Sol Ananda, (Frente a la Plaza Mayor) a Paladar in the 3rd oldest building in Trinidad. While we had a choice where to eat since this was 'free time' we all went to same restaurant. They had a great band playing and really good food. One room was the wine cellar with a dining table. Owner told me there are two bedrooms upstairs that one can rent.. a B& B! Still pouring outside!
So, Alfredo arranged for dance lessons for the afternoon:-) Hotel waiter was our dance instructors assisted by women on staff - maids, receptionist... all joined in as we danced in the Dining Room.
Excellent dinner at Davimart, Paladar and Casa Particular (B&B). Welcome drink of water, honey, lemon, rum! Appetizer of tomato stuffed with tuna and pasta on bed of grated cabbage and carrots, vegetable bisque, lobster, dessert, white wine, agua gaseado. Because of the torrential rain, Alfredo had bus drive to the door of the Paladar which is against the law. A conundrum... government has encouraged private business but does not allow bus to drop tourists directly at the door of a Paladar, a private business! David Aloma is owner/chef. Studied in France. Promoted on Trip Advisor and is on Facebook. Davimart61@yahoo.es www.tripadvisor.com Calle Anastasio Cardenas 58 esquina Simon Bolivar.
Wednesday, June 20 Trinidad
Implementing 'Plan B'... given the continuing downpour we are unable to take bus to the mountains so we will drive to Santa Clara about 2.5 hour drive. Santa Clara is where Che Guevara fought his last battle of the Castro revolution and where Che is buried. Oops! Looks like 'Plan C' is in play for today. Rain has caused the road to Santa Clara to be closed, so off to see the beach resorts on the Caribbean, a basket making enterprise and sites in Trinidad.
Driving to the sea we saw men fishing from the road where water had flooded. Standing on side of road throwing nets into the current, they were catching dozens of tilapia. Some fish could be sold to the markets and some eaten by the families. On Peninsula Ancon we visited the all-inclusive Club Ancon; walked the beach. Fortunately it is not raining - now. GCF had stayed at the Las Brisas resort on its initial trips to Cuba. However the distance from the city of Trinidad and failing infrastructure caused them to move. Fortunately we have the pleasure of staying in the Hotel Rhonda.
Guide commented that the resorts on the north side of the island on the Atlantic Ocean, such as in Varadero, are far superior to these on the Caribbean. Many are joint ventures with French, Spanish and German companies. Canadians and Europeans travel to these resorts rather than Mexico to escape their winter.
We visited a factory for basket making... all women. Many have been working here for 20 - 40 years. Lunch in town and back to Hotel to catch up on daily journal- the text for this blog. No internet so can not actually create blog day by day.
Dinner at Hotel... buffet with salad, soup, turkey, fish, cake... two drinks... white wine is not bad.
There was a band playing quietly during dinner; the beat picked up by dessert and we danced our way around the dining room... guests, maids, wait staff, bartenders... all danced!
After dinner we moved to the street where a band was practicing for Carnival this weekend. about 30 dancers performed a Cuban line dance with intricate moves!
Thursday, June 21 Trinidad/Havana
Underway at 8:30 am. Returning to Havana. With 'banos' stops, lunch (box lunch at restaurant along road) and Hemingway's home in Havana suburb, we arrived at Hotel Nacional at 4:30 pm. We were tired and the Hotel was a madhouse! Many tour groups arrived at the same time so it took a while to get our room keys and welcome drink. We waited in the bar where there are photos of film celebrities, world politicians, artists, writers... who have visited Cuba over the years - mostly before the Revolution.
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| Ernest H! |
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| Dining Room Hemingway's H |
http://www.aflfc.org/eng/whoweare/ludwig.html
Friday, June 22 HAVANA
Tomas and Jorge Rodriguez, Cuban citizens who have agreed to speak with GCF groups, presented their opinion on what is required to improve relations between these countries. Fundamentally it requires a willingness on the part of both countries to agree to problems and resolve them with actions on both sides. Their PowerPoint presentation is included below. Remember, these ideas are the opinions of these two men in their 50's. One component of the change requires that internet be readily available to businesses and individuals in Cuba. A fiber optic line has been laid under the sea from Venezuela to Santiago de Cuba. Jorge did not know how they would connect this fiber to businesses and homes on the island.
Farewell dinner at ... Paladar in Havana Vieja. Highlight of evening was the ride back to Hotel in 1950's convertibles!
Saturday, June 23 Havana/ Miami/ Denver Travel Day
Today we return home! As always I have mixed emotions... would love to continue traveling in Cuba and add to my great experiences and ready to go home. I just plan to return to Cuba:-)
We left Hotel at 8:45am. It took about an hour to check in, pay departure tax (25 CUC), clear immigration and then wait for flight.
ABOUT CUBA
A mixture of colors... If there were 100 people in Cuba, 65 would be white, 25 mulatto and 10 would be black.Many facts and figures about Cuba have been communicated at various times during our discussions; I consolidate them here.
COMMUNITY SERVICES
Garbage Collection
JOSE MARTI
Most famous writer, poet, philosopher, revolutionary - arguing for the rights of the people. Statue in Revolution Square, Havana. Photo of Dyann and Sue with Summit Daily in front of Jose Marti statue in Cienfuego.
HOME OWNERSHIP
New in 2008 Cubans are able to own a home but the state retains ownership of the land. Homes can be purchased ...SOCIALIZING
Cubans 'live on the street' - sitting, talking, drinking, dancing on Malecon whether in Havana or Cienfuegos or ... too hot to stay inside; no air conditioning
Salsa bands play everywhere and Cubans of all ages love to dance.
MODES OF TRANSPORTATION ...
Only 20% of Cubans own an automobile, all others travel by foot, bicycle, bus, taxis - Russian Ladas, 1950 vintage American cars, pedicabs, cocotaxis, BiCitaxis -, horse drawn carts, hitch hike, horse, ... 
People hitch hike everywhere, it is considered safe. Typically there is a person wearing yellow clothes - Amarillos - who organizes the hitch hikers stopping cars and trucks for them. Government vehicles are required to stop for hitch hikers.
Yellow - private
Red - rental car
Black - diplomat; US Intersection plates start with 201
Blue - government owned taxis or vehicles
Mint - Ministry of Interior (CIA)
White - government ministers
Olive Green - military
Light Brown - directors of government
Orange - religious institutions or cars of foreigners in joint venture
Roads between Havana, Cienfuegos and Trinidad were good enough to support the 100 km/hr speed limit. There are checkpoints between provinces; police check for contraband such as lobster and beef which
are intended for the tourist trade, drugs, stolen products headed for the black market. 
Horse drawn carriage and CoCoTaxi
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| For rent at Hotel Nacional, Havana |
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| and, of course, there is always a horse! |
MONEY
Two currencies - local peso and convertible peso or CUC
1 CUC = 24 local pesos; 1 € = 1.16 CUC; 1 $ = .87 CUC
EDUCATION
The best description of Cuba's education system is included in the Summer 2012 Connecticut College Alumni Magazine in an article Spring break: Havana.
"History major Karina Hernandez '14 says the trip opened her eyes. 'Everybody was educated. Almost every person I met was more aware of what is going on in the world than the average American.' she says. 'Cuba truly offers a first-world education in a third-world economy'." I could not have said it better! Education is free for all Cubans from Day care through Vocational School and/or University.
HAVANA |
(Reuters) - Cuba is cutting back its hallowed free education system and moving students into more practical careers to reduce costs and fill needs in its work force, recently released government statistics show.
HEALTH CARE
Health care is free for all Cubans. As travelers, $30 gave us access to the Health Care system.Medical Doctors
After graduation from Medical School which is 'free', paid by Government, each doctor is required to do 2-3 years social service. Many are deployed to local clinics. Some do Post Graduate studies outside of Cuba, sometimes in Canada or France.Maternity Care
Women work until they are 7 months pregnant and then go on maternity leave at full pay. This leave lasts for 1 year after birth.
When there are medical or social complications during pregnancy, women can go to a Maternal Home where they stay an average of 30-35 days. Their families and friends can visit. The home, like a dormitory, is staffed by a Dr and Nurse. This is a free service.Mental Health Care - freeSALARIES
Medical Doctors are paid 300 pesos per month initially and can make as much as 800 pesos when experienced.
Nurses and Police make the largest salaries since their services are required and they are in short supply... few want the job so the government uses money as an incentive! In addition, nurses and police are able to buy appliances and clothes for local pesos while all others pay in CUC. Considering that 1 CUC = 24 CUC, this is a considerable saving.
On January 29, 2014 PolitoFact.com published the following article about Cuba's health care and affect on low child mortality and long lives.
http://www.politifact.com/truth-o-meter/statements/2014/jan/31/tom-harkin/sen-tom-harkin-says-cuba-has-lower-child-mortality/
RELIGION IN CUBA
CATHOLICISM
SANTERIA
The spirit told him of meaningful artifacts that were buried in his house. His Father dug into the floor and found these objects. While the Government confiscated the objects of apparent value, he was able to save 'stones' which have significance representing energies and are used in secret rituals. This home is an UNESCO World Heritage site. Occasionally, the Santero has visions.
JUDAISM
Before the Castro Revolution there were 150,000 Jews in Cuba where they were treated well- equal to other Cuban citizens. They emigrated from Spain and Turkey (Sephardic) and from Eastern Europe, Russia and Germany (Ashkenazi) to avoid persecution. These Jews owned businesses including Diamonds. With Castro and Communism and the pending nationalization of these businesses and distribution if wealth to all people, the vast majority of the Jewish community left Cuba for the United States. Today there are only 1500 Jews in Cuba and two synagogues. We visited the Sephardic Jewish Center that has a Senior Center, a place for socializing.Street Drugs, Alcohol
Street drugs are not a social problem in Cuba. Drugs are not found in schools, public places because availability low and penalties severe. For example, the 'neighborhood watch' CDR is everywhere.
Cigarette and cigar smoking are widespread. We were disappointed to see members of the Ebony Dance Company smoking after they performed for us.Typically, Cubans drink coffee, beer and rum not wine. We were offered Mojitos or Cuba Libre as a 'welcome drink' in every restaurant!
FOOD RATIONS
Every month each Cuban gets a food ration book which they redeem at a government store for specific foods. While the 10 oz. of chick peas is small for an entire month, this base level of food is intended to keep people from starving. Additional food is available for purchase with money earned working. The monthly food ration can be considered a 'safety net'.
POLITICAL SYSTEM AND PHILOSOPHY (last updated by SG on July 14, 2012)
From 1902 - 1958, Cuba was run by a series of authoritarian Presidents with financial and commercial support from the US. The 1940's and 50's were the heyday of Batista and the Mafia-supported casinos and clubs and corruption. During this period there were many very rich people, a small middle class and large number of poor people - significant and obvious differences between social classes. The education and health care systems were lacking. In 1959, Fidel Castro and his revolutionary brothers Camille Cienfuegos and Che Guevara, created a new system of government; a Cuban variant of Communism. They built an education system from day care through university requiring all to attend through 9th grade. All levels of school are free, including University, Medical School, all graduate level education ... They built and staffed a universal health care system free to all. In contrast to the USSR, the arts were encouraged to flourish. Schools for artists are free. The goal of this government has been equality for all... eliminating the class distinctions that had separated Cubans before. (Of course, goals and reality sometimes part company. SG)
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| "Country or death" |
government is remembered in billboards as a victory for the homeland.
Source: Wikipedia The U.S. Embargo against Cuba.
The U.S. embargo is a commercial, economic, and financial embargo partially imposed on Cuba in October 1960 (almost two years after the Batista regime was deposed by the Cuban Revolution.) It was enacted after Cuba nationalized the properties of United States citizens and corporations and it was strengthened to a near-total embargo on February 7, 1962.[1]. Titled the Cuban Democracy Act, the embargo was codified into law in 1992 with the stated purpose of maintaining sanctions on Cuba so long as the Cuban government continues to refuse to move toward "democratization and greater respect for human rights."[2] In 1996, Congress passed the Helms-Burton Act, which further restricted United States citizens from doing business in or with Cuba, and mandated restrictions on giving public or private assistance to any successor government in Havana unless and until certain claims against the Cuban government are met. In 1999, U.S. President Bill Clinton expanded the trade embargo even further by ending the practice of foreign subsidiaries of U.S. companies trading with Cuba. In 2000, Clinton authorized the sale of certain "humanitarian" US products to Cuba.
Beyond human rights, the United States holds $6 billion worth of financial claims against the Cuban government.[3] The Cuban-American position is that the U. S. embargo is, in part, an appropriate response to these unaddressed claims.[4] It has been argued that pro-embargo Cuban-American exiles, whose votes are crucial in Florida, have swayed many politicians to also adopt similar views.[5] The Cuban-American views have been opposed by some business leaders who argue that trading freely would be good for Cuba and the United States.[6]
At present, the embargo, which limits American businesses from conducting business with Cuban interests, is still in effect and is the most enduring trade embargo in modern history. Despite the existence of the embargo, the United States is the fifth largest exporter to Cuba (6.6% of Cuba's imports are from the US).[7] However, Cuba must pay cash for all imports, as credit is not allowed.[8]The Obama administration made slight changes to the restrictions on U.S. travel to Cuba. On April 13, 2009, President Barack Obama loosened the travel ban, now allowing Cuban-Americans to travel freely to the country;[23] and on January 14, 2011 he further loosened the ban, by allowing students and religious missionaries to travel to Cuba if they meet certain restrictions.[24] The President has outlined a series of steps that Cuba could take to demonstrate a willingness to open its closed society, including releasing political prisoners, allowing United States telecommunications companies to operate on the island and ending government fees on U.S. dollars sent by relatives in the United States. In confirmation hearings for the position of Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton said that she believed that the ban on Cuban-American family travel should be lifted.[25]
This embargo is brought to the front of Cubans minds with many billboards referencing 'Bloqueo'. In this billboard, Cuba is punching Uncle Sam.
"Only Socialism will Overcome the Difficulties"
CHALLENGES FOR THE FUTURE OF CUBA...
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| Sue with Jorge and Tomas Rodriguez |
Challenges for the future of Cuba include the socialism/capitalism balancing act and the reduction/elimination of the U.S. embargo. On June 22 at the Hotel Nacional, Jorge and Tomas Rodriguez (Cuban citizens) shared their "Personal Vision About U.S. - Cuba Relations" with our Grand Circle Foundation group. Charts from their power point presentation follow. This certainly is 'food for thought'.
Chart 1: U.S - Cuba Relations before Revolution
- Cuba was under Spanish domination during 19th.c when U.S. supported the ideas of annexation
- Cespedes started the Cuban Independence War in 1868 which was resumed by Jose Marti in 1895
- Battleship Maine visiting Havana exploded and sank in February 1898. Then U.S. intervened in our Independence War.
- U.S. military governments ruled Cuba until May 20, 1902 when a pseudo-republic was instituted.
- The 1901 Cuban Constitution included the Platt Amendment
- From 1902 to 1958 Cuban economy and Cuban government were controlled and backed by U.S.
Chart 2: Triumph of Revolution, nationalizations and Bay of Pigs
- Fidel Castro swept the corrupted and dictatorial regimen of Batista in 1959. In that moment Cuba was in a dramatic situation
- Tensions started when the Agrarian reform Law of 1959 was signed affecting U.S. sugar interests. U.S. pressed Cuba with economic sanctions.
- Cuba nationalized all U.S.-owned properties; Washington imposed a trade embargo in 1960.
- Total break in diplomatic relations occurred in January 1961
- Cuba began commercial relations with the USSR
- The first confrontation took place when U.S. supported and trained forces landed in the Bay of Pigs in April 1961.
Chart 3: October Crisis and Direct Confrontations
- Cuba was separated from OAS in 1962
- Cuba afraid for its security allowed USSR to install missile bases which were discovered by U.S. spy planes
- Kennedy ordered a naval blockade. After days of negotiations Khrushchev agreed to remove the weapons and Kennedy promised not to attack Cuba
- During the1960's U.S supports contra-revolutionary groups; meanwhile Cuba supports revolutionary movements in Africa and Latin America.
- The Cuban Adjustment Law signed in 1966 by President L.B. Johnson
Chart 4: The 70s and 80s
- In 1972 Cuba became a member of the Council of Mutual Economic Assistance (COMECON)
- In 1975 Cuba launched a large-scale support to Angola in its war against Zaire and South Africa military forces. In 1988 Angola, South Africa and Cuba signed in new York a treaty ending the war in Angola
- The United States and Cuba established interest sections in Washington and Havana in 1977
- A big migration crisis occurrred in 1980when Cuba allowed 125,000 people to depart to the U.S. from the port of Mariel.
- Radio Marti in 1985 and TV Marti in 1990 began broadcasting subversive programs to Cuba from U.S. territory.
Chart 5: The Special Period
- During the 90s the USSR was disintegrated and most of the commercial links with Cuba were broken. The economic situation was extremely difficult.
- Another migration crisis affected U.S.- Cuban relations in 1994
- In February 1996 Cuban military planes shot down two U.S. civil aircraft which were violating our national airspace systematically.
- Former President Clinton and U.S. Congress codified the U.S. trade embargo into a law and imposed additional sanctions on Cuba.
Chart 6: Economic Recovery and Fidel Illness
- Cuban government started economic changes investing heavily in biotechnology and creating joint ventures in the most important industries
- The incomes from medical services abroad grew. US dollar circulation was allowed and Cubans began receiving remittances. New economic links were developed with China and Venezuela
- The economy started growing slowly but continuously
- Fidel had serious intestinal illness in 2006 and renounced his responsibilities as Head of State and Government
- Fidel health improves considerably and now he is at work and active playing a new role as political adviser concentrated mainly in international affairs.
Chart 7: The Raul and Obama Era
- Cuban Government continued the economic changes shifting part of the economy to the private sector
- Raul is calling Cuban enterprises to increase productivity and minimize bureaucracy
- Government is fighting administrative corruption
- Hundred of thousands of Cuban have obtained licenses to operate private businesses while new rules legitimize the private sector.
- Raul has eliminated excessive bans and regulations.
- Cubans have seen some changes under Obama administration. Nevertheless U.S. policy toward Cuba is still based on:
- The economic embargo
- The support of Cuban subversive groups
- The attempt to isolate Cuba
Chart 8: Terrorist attacks. Isolation.
- Cuba remains on the black list of States Sponsors of Terrorism because Cuba opposes the global war vs. terrorism and because allegations of support of Colombian insurgent groups and Basque ETA members
- Cubans have suffered a lot of terrorist actions during the last 53 years. Cuban Government has condemned all kinds of terrorism
- U.S. Government has tried to isolate Cuba but have failed.
- The UN General Assembly has voted every year since 1992 a resolution calling for the end of the embargo
- Cuba has economic and diplomatic relations with almost all of the countries except the U.S. Cuba is a member of several regional and international organizations.
Chart 9: Cuban Positions
- Cuba remains a vocal critic of U.S. policies speaking against the trade embargo. The U.S. government attempts to topple Cuban Government and the way U.S. administrations have been doing its global war against terrorism
- Cuba condemns U.S. exploitation of developing countries
- Cuban Government has expressed its desire to discuss and solve the historical differences with the U.S. without pressure and/or conditioning.
- Cuba doesn't represent a threat to the U.S.
- Normal relations could be highly profitable to the U.S.
- Cuba could provide assistance in fighting drug traffic and terrorism and cooperate in case of natural disasters.
Chart 10: What can we do?
- Increasing the kinds of interchanges between common people
- Increasing sportive, cultural, scientific and academic interchanges
- Disseminating our personal experiences and knowledge about Cuba
- Supporting projects aimed to normalize U.S. - Cuba relations
Chart 11: What U.S. and Cuba should do to improve their relations?
- Both parts should discuss and solve their historical discrepancies finding satisfactory solutions.
- Ending the embargo and normalizing the economic relations
- Eliminating hostile actions from both sides
- Leaving Cuban people to solve our problems by ourselves
- Liberating Cuban prisoners in U.S. and U.S. prisoners in Cuba
- Giving back to Cuba the sovereignty of the Naval Base of Guantanamo
- Derogating the Law of Cuban Adjustment
- Starting cooperation in issues of mutual interest
Promoting Cuba's participation
in the 2012 Olympics
WHAT DO AMERICANS THINK ABOUT US-CUBA RELATIONS?
In January 2012, ANGUS REID Public Opinion (the public affairs practice of VisionCritical, a Canadian company) conducted a poll; the results of their research is reported below. (I found this on the internet. SG)
Most Americans Willing to Re-establish Ties with Cuba
A majority of respondents also wants to lift the travel ban that prevents
most Americans from visiting Cuba.
[NEW YORK – Feb. 6, 2012] - People in the United States are ready to change their country’s interaction with Cuba, a new Angus Reid Public
Opinion poll has found.
In the online survey of a representative national sample of 1,008 American adults, three-in-five respondents (62%) agree with the U.S. reestablishing diplomatic relations with Cuba, while one-in-four (23%) disagree.
Majorities of Independents (67%), Democrats (64%) and Republicans (56%) agree with re-instituting bilateral ties. In March 2009, U.S. President Barack Obama eased travel restrictions to Cuba, and allowed U.S. citizens to travel to the island for religious and cultural reasons. Most Americans (57%)
believe it is time to lift the travel ban that prevents most Americans from visiting the island. Half of Americans (51%) would lift the trade embargo with Cuba that has been in place since the 1960s, while three-in-ten (29%) disagree. Most Democrats (53%) and Independents (55%) support
ending the embargo, but Republicans are not as convinced (46%).
KEY FINDINGS
62% would re-establish diplomatic relations with Cuba
57% would lift the travel ban that prevents most Americans from visiting
Cuba
51% would lift the trade embargo with Cuba
Full topline results are at the end of this release.
From January 27 to January 28, 2012, Angus Reid Public
Opinion conducted an online survey among 1,008 American adults who are Springboard America panelists. The margin of error—which measures sampling variability—is +/- 3.1%. The results have been statistically weighted according to the most current education, age, gender and region Census data to ensure a sample representative of the entire adult population of the United States. Discrepancies in or between totals are due to rounding.
On July 26, 2012, the following article from Reuters on Cuba's expanding economic reforms....
* Some state companies to be granted greater autonomy
* All Cubans to pay income and property taxes
* New cooperatives to divide profits as members see fit
By Marc Frank
HAVANA, July 26 (Reuters) - Cuba adopted a new tax code this week and said it would loosen regulations on some state companies while turning others into cooperatives, as one of the world's last Soviet-style economies moves in a more market-friendly direction.
The plans were announced at a session of the National Assembly, which passed the country's first comprehensive tax code since the 1959 revolution on the communist-ruled island.
See rest of article at following link....
http://in.reuters.com/article/2012/07/26/cuba-reform-idINS1E86O00420120726
REVOLUTIONARIES
CHE GUEVARA
Definitely a national hero!
(Add Bio of Che}
Killed in Bolivia at 39 years old by order from CIA. Body returned to Cuba in 1997 to Santa Clara. Proclaimed a Cuban citizen 'by birth'.
FIDEL CASTRO (Bio to be added)CAMILLO CIENFUEGOS (Bio to be added)
Five Cuban Heroes
" End the injustice"
Five Cuban men sent by the Cuban government to Miami to infiltrate an anti-Castro organization. They were discovered and prosecuted by the US Courts as 'terrorists'. Now serving significant prison sentences in US. Cuba says their goal was to gain knowledge to oppose terrorism and that they were unjustly prosecuted.
WHAT IS NEXT FOR CUBA?
Raúl Castro Says His New 5-Year Term as Cuba’s President Will Be His Last
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/25/world/americas/raul-castro-to-step-down-as-cubas-president-in-2018.html
On Sunday, February 24, 2013 Raul Castro was elected to his second 5-year term as President of Cuba. To the surprise of many, Raul announced Manuel Diaz-Canal Bermudez, 52, as his successor.
Let's see what happens next!
Camille Dautrich, fellow GCF traveler, has written an article for her local newspaper. Click link to read her excellent summary!
http://www.news-leader.com/
GUIDES
Alfredo Valverde, GCF alfredo3224@gmail.com
Oscar Rodriguez Martin, Havanatours sendmeanywhere2009@yahoo.com
Frank, driver, Transtur
OUR GCF GROUP
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| Oscar, Cuban Guide; great T-Shirt and makeshift umbrella |
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| Dyann & Sue, dinner at Ludwig Foundation |
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| Front to back: Barry, Camille, Alex, Robert |
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| Debbie plays piano at Farewell Dinner |
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| Shirley sings with Street Musician! |
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| Susan and Richard, .... |
FredLee, NY & Linda, CO
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| Dyann and Sue resting on the Malecon |
